Kawasaki KLX 250S clutch inspection, a DIY guide

Part 2: Kawasaki KLX 250S clutch inspection and reassembly!

Here are some (more on that in a bit) of the parts you will need to put your clutch back together, starting with the upper left and going clockwise we have:
Gasket, Clutch 11060-1325
Gasket, Clutch Cover 11061-0923
Plate-Friction (x7) 13088-0042
Plate-Clutch 13089-1085
O-Ring 670B1506
Washer (x2) 11009-1344
Gasket, Pump Cover 11060-1328

Measure your clutch springs. Standard length is 3.54cm. Service limit is 3.39cm. As you can see, my springs are just below the minimum. And of course, I didn’t order new ones and as luck would have it they are out of stock until next week…

Add these to your parts list: SPRING (x6) 92145-0637

You will also want to measure the thickness of your clutch plate assembly:

Standard thickness is 3.03-3.09cm so my assembly is just a bit below the minimum.

Measure your friction plates (measure at several points on every plate as they do not always wear evenly):

Standard thickness is 2.92-3.08mm, so these are still within the service limit, but I’ll replace them all the same as they are very cheap.

These friction plates are still within spec. Free to anyone who wants them

Thickness of new friction plates:

Visually inspect the 6 steel clutch plates for signs of overheating (discoloration), warp and wear:

There are 6 steel plates, 1 is smooth and 5 are not. The smooth plate goes onto the clutch hub FIRST.

Remove and inspect the judder spring seat and judder spring. Reinstall as shown, making sure you have the judder spring in the correct orientation:

Reassembly- apply oil to all dry plates to avoid clutch plate seizure.

Install 1 friction plate onto the clutch hub, followed by the SMOOTH steel clutch plate:

Then alternate friction plates with steel plates:

7 friction plates and 6 steel plates installed:

Install the clutch wheel:

Next step is to install the springs, but since mine are out of spec this is as far as we go until I get new springs next week.

To be continued!!

Kawasaki KLX 250 Clutch Disassembly, Inspection and Replacement

My clutch has started slipping, time for a rebuild! Thought I’d write it up with pictures; hopefully others might find this useful!

All images © Marc Nisam. All Rights Reserved.

First thing you want to do is drain your engine oil and remove the brake pedal and RH footpeg:

Next, loosen the clutch cable and remove the clutch cover bolts (notice the two top bolts are badly corroded- they will be replaced):

Remove the clutch cover. There are two small dowel pins, roughly at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock that insure proper alignment of the cover- make sure they don’t fall out and get lost!

Clutch cover removed- what it looks like on the inside. Note- do not remove the clutch release shaft from the clutch cover. If it is removed you’ll need to install a new oil seal.

Next you will need to drain the coolant / anti-freeze. First remove the drain bolt at the bottom of the water pump, then remove the radiator cap and the coolant will drain out of the bike.

You will also need to remove the rear brake light switch:

Remove the water pump cover:

With the water pump cover removed you will see the water pump impeller. Remove the bolt holding the impeller to the shaft, then remove the impeller and the spacer behind the impeller, paying close attention to the orientation of the spacer:

Remove the oil pipe banjo bolt:

Carefully pull off the right side engine cover. Make sure the two dowel pins are in position (3 o’clock and 9 o’clock) and be careful they don’t fall out and get lost.

The O-ring to the upper right of the large oil pump gear will probably fall out when you remove the engine cover. It should be re-installed with chamfered side facing out, as in the picture:

Inside of the right hand engine cover:

Next remove the clutch pusher, being careful not to loose the small washer:

Remove the clutch holder:

Remove the clutch hub nut. (Kawasaki recommends the use of a special “Gear Holder” tool but I had no trouble removing this nut without it.

Remove the clutch plate assembly and clutch housing:

Clutch Plate Assembly and Clutch Housing removed:

Disassemble the clutch plate assembly. First remove the spring bolts:

With the bolts removed, remove the Spring Plate:

Remove the Clutch Springs:

Remove the Clutch Wheel:

Remove the clutch plate assembly from the Clutch Housing (note the washer in the picture):

In our next segment we will inspect the clutch plates, friction plates and clutch springs!

Let the Good Times ROLL!