Kawasaki KLX 250S Clutch Replacement, Part 3 of 3

Finally got the clutch springs I was waiting for! Let’s finish this up and RIDE!!

New springs are about half a millimeter short… The correct length is supposed to be 35.4mm and these are about 35mm long… Service limit is 33.9mm so these will work. I’ve been told that the OEM Kawasaki springs are rather weak and will source some better quality springs, probably Barnett, for the next rebuild. The clutch spring bolts should be torqued to 69 in/lbs.

Verify correct thickness of clutch plate assembly (standard thickness is 3.03-3.09cm):

Install and grease washer and sleeve:

Install clutch:

Torque the clutch hub nut to 58 ft/lbs:

As I don’t have the gear holder tool to keep the clutch from spinning I put the bike in gear and lashed the rear wheel to the swing arm which allows me to achieve the correct torque on the clutch hub nut-

Oil and install the clutch pusher, washer and holder:

Beer break!

Get ready to install engine cover. Make sure old gasket is completely removed and all mating surfaces clean and dry-

Make sure this o-ring is orientated correctly, flat side towards the engine, rounded side facing out:

Install dowel pins and new gasket:

Install right side engine cover, use non-permanent thread lock on all bolts and torque to 87 in/lbs:

Note the location of the bolt with the spacer and bracket for the brake pedal spring:

Install the clutch cover. Insert the dowels and new gasket like this:

Turn the clutch release lever so that the cut-out will face the clutch pusher, like this:

Install the clutch cover, torque all bolts to 87 in/lbs:

*Note- you may have noticed earlier that some bolts were corroded. I replaced the corroded bolts and coated the new bolts in grease, which hopefully will prevent or at least slow down similar corrosion in the future.

Reinstall the rear brake pedal. The pedal fits through the frame and is sealed by two o-rings. They don’t make a very good seal, so I’d recommend cleaning the brake pedal shaft, replacing the o-rings, and greasing the shaft before installation-

I also cleaned and greased the brake pedal mounting point on the frame:

Rear brake pedal installed:

Install the oil pipe banjo bolt, using new crush washers, torque to 15 ft/lbs:

Clean and reassemble the water pump; the small o-ring should be replaced:

Install the impeller on the water pump shaft and tighten the impeller nut to 69 in/lbs:

Insert the dowel pins and new pump cover gasket:

Install the water pump cover, torque the bolts to 87 in/lbs:

Reconnect the radiator hoses and reinstall the coolant drain plug, torque to 18 ft/lbs:

New oil filter:

Refill oil and coolant, start the bike and check for leaks; let it run until the fan kicks on and top up the coolant if necessary. Job done!

Let the Good Times ROLL!!!

(All images © Marc Nisam. All Rights Reserved)

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Categories: DIY, maintenance, Motorcycles, repairs | Tags: , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

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